How to Keep Your Lawn & Landscape Healthy in a Drought

Over the last few years, we’ve learned just how challenging it can be to maintain a green and lush lawn & landscape during a drought. Scorching temperatures and dry soil can take a toll on your plants and grass. But don’t despair, there are some tips and tricks you can use to keep your Cedar Rapids & Iowa City properties looking great even in the driest conditions. Here are some of them:

Proper Lawn Mowing Routines

We always recommend raising your mowing height in the summer months. As we found out in the spring of 2023, it may be necessary to do this as a response to turf conditions. Mowing & edging your lawn too short or waiting too long between mowing can have several detrimental effects. Every time the plant is mowed, moisture is removed. Not only is the plant itself mostly made of water, but the open wounds from mowing will result in a loss of moisture. Furthermore, moisture is required to help “build” the leaf tissue that is grown to replace what has been lost. Mowing too short, removing more than 1/3 of the plant, will thin out the canopy of grass leaves and allow more sunlight to filter through to the soil. That will dry the soil faster and open up avenues for weeds to come in. The single thing that a homeowner can do that is hardest on the lawn is to mow too short. Doing this in the midst of a drought can set a lawn back months. Aim for a height of 3 to 4 inches, and in the heat of summer/in drought conditions, set your mower on the highest setting possible. It’s also very important to make sure your mower’s blades are sharp. A sharp blade will cut through grass cleanly, leaving a wound that will heal quickly. A dull mower blade tears and shreds the plant, creating a large wound that will take longer to heal. Also, the increased surface area of the cuts (as shown on the left), will result in more moisture leaving the plant.

Don’t Skip Your Lawn Care Treatments!

There is a widespread notion that applying fertilizer when it’s hot will “burn up” the plant. That is simply not true. A regular application on the hottest summer day, even on dormant turf, will not have any negative affect on your lawn. Fertilizer only is a negative if it’s misapplied; a spill that doesn’t get cleaned up or sufficiently diluted, or a liquid fertilizer that is allowed to get too hot and it turns into acid. Simply put, something has to go very wrong for fertilizer to burn the turf, and in those instances, no weather conditions would save the plant.

Lawn fertilizer does more than help grass grow. Essential nutrients are supplied that help maintain as healthy a plant as possible. Elements like potassium, phosphorus, calcium and sulfur are vital to the plant’s ability to withstand stress, fight off disease, grow strong roots, or make sure the most necessary functions at the cellular level are operating as efficiently as possible. Plants use water, sunlight and nutrients at all times, except for during deep winter dormancy. Having a reserve of essential nutrients in the soil is necessary for plants to function when conditions are great for growing. Drought dormancy is very hard on plants, and the things that are needed for plants to grow in good conditions are needed even more to help plants recover should they slip into dormancy. Having a reserve of nutrients for turf roots to feed on is absolutely necessary for your lawn to fully recover from drought. It’s never a good idea to starve your plants!

Rainfall or irrigation is necessary to “activate” nutrients in the soil. A common request we’ll receive is to wait for rain to complete the next application. It is much better to complete the application when it’s dry and wait for rainfall, than to wait and complete it after it rains. We are never certain when the next rain event will happen, and fertilizer doesn’t disappear if it isn’t watered in. The products we use are coated for a controlled release, ensuring that the product will stay in place and release slowly over time. This gives the plant a slow feeding that lasts for several weeks and helps to maintain a rich, green color.

Water Your Lawn Wisely

When you water your lawn and landscape, make sure you do it efficiently and effectively. The best time to water is early in the morning or late in the evening, when the sun is not too strong, and evaporation is minimal. Water deeply and infrequently, rather than shallowly and often, to encourage deep root growth and drought tolerance. If you’re watering landscape plants, set up a drip irrigation system or use a hose on a soaker setting to deliver water directly to the roots, rather than a sprinkler that wastes water on the leaves and pavement. Watering the foliage of landscaping plants or trees in the hot/humid stretches of summer can encourage disease development.

Mulch or Rock Your Landscape Beds

Mulching is a great way to conserve moisture, prevent weeds, and protect the roots of your plants from extreme temperatures. It’s best to use organic materials such as wood chips, straw, leaves, or grass clippings. Synthetic mulches made out of plastic or rubber are also available and can provide many of the same benefits, but they are costly, don’t break down to become organic matter, and can’t be tilled into the soil. Rock is frequently used in landscaping beds and does a good job suppressing weeds as long as a quality barrier is in place under the rock. Like mulch, a rock layer can also prevent moisture loss from the soil. However, rock can become very hot and can damage plants that are more sensitive to heat. Rock will reflect heat that can cause wilting to foliage and heat stress that wouldn’t occur with a wood mulch. A sound strategy that combines the look of rock with the benefits of mulch is to have a ring of mulch around the base of the plant, while the rest of the bed is covered in rock. When mulching, apply a layer of 2 to 4 inches of mulch around your plants, leaving some space around the stems to avoid rotting.

Consider Tall Fescue Grass for Your Lawn

Tall fescue is something that we’ve spent a lot of time talking about, and for good reason. It’s known for its deep root system, which allows it to withstand drought conditions better than many other grass types. By considering tall fescue for your lawn, you can take a proactive step towards drought management. Its resilience and ability to maintain green color even in dry spells make it a valuable addition to any lawn.

Drought management is expected to be a necessary skill moving forward! By incorporating tall fescue and implementing these tips, you can keep your lawn and landscape healthy and vibrant even in the face of drought challenges.

What Did We See in 2023?

As 2022 was coming to a close, we did a quick synopsis of what we had encountered that growing season. The general feeling was that it was a very unique year and we were hopeful that some of the problems we found wouldn’t become new traditions. The good news is that insect issues were not nearly as bad in 2023, and that was a major concern of ours heading into this season! The bad news is that the periodic stretches of dry weather from 2022 turned into a near season-long drought in 2023.

Drought Stress Continues...

A relatively mild, dry winter started our year off with a moisture deficit. That deficit never went away, as every month of the growing season failed to provide the amount of moisture we needed to return our lawns and landscapes to a state of proper hydration. Without additional irrigation, plants lacked color and vigor. Flowers were sparse and small, and scenic landscapes lacked their usual “wow!” factor. Depending on species, some mature shade trees showed various signs of drought stress all season.

On lawns, the prolonged drought showed itself in a number of ways. The vibrant green color of spring was faded and lawns came out of winter more slowly. It is usually a battle to keep the lawn mowed in the months of May and June, because the grass is growing very fast. We did not have that problem this year, and the lack of growth meant thin or bare areas never fully healed. Lawns were battling dormancy all summer, resulting in a thinning of the turf and increased susceptibility to compaction, traffic, and insect damage. A reduced turf canopy opened the soil to warmth and sunlight, which gave weeds an avenue to break through. Luckily, some timely rains in the later part of fall helped hydrate the soil and give our plant life much needed water to help restore some of its lost luster. The late rains also gave us a clear picture on areas that may require seeding in the spring.

The Unexpected Culripts

Another issue that was frustrating to us and our customers involved the increased amount of raccoon damage that was seen for a few weeks in October. Whenever we see animals digging through turf, our immediate reaction is to assume that there is a problem with insects. Even after using a product that kills grubs and other surface insects, the raccoons were still digging! Why? Well, we learned a few things! First, raccoon populations have exploded across the state of Iowa over the last 15 years. The price for fur has gone down considerably, and fewer people are trapping them as a source of income. Due to several dry years in a row, it is becoming more difficult for them to find food in their natural habitat. As a result, they are searching around homes and in urban areas for something to eat. Second, they don’t care if their food is alive or dead. We found a few grubs on properties that were dealing with raccoons, but they were not white or lively. Those grubs weren’t damaging the turf, but a hungry raccoon doesn’t care. Third, raccoons are great at finding anything to eat. It turns out their presence doesn’t indicate an insect issue at all. The problem was the raccoons themselves. There are simply too many of them and the only solution that was found that had a positive impact was to trap or eliminate them. The state of Iowa has changed its laws around dealing with raccoons, and our hope is that their populations come under control and they stop being such a nuisance for our customers.

I Have My Own Irrigation System! Am I Doing This Right?

iowa lawn irrigation

Congratulations! You’ve just bought the house of your dreams in Iowa City or Cedar Rapids, IA! It’s a great feeling – this is the kind of home you’ve worked for and you just know that you’re going to be happy there. You’re a bit of a lawn nut too, and you’ve stumbled into a property that has an in-ground irrigation system. No more brown or yellow lawn in July and August when things get too dry. You can have a nice, lush, green lawn the whole season, and the title of “Turf King” is in your sights.

Oh, if only it was that easy! Water is essential for all plant growth, we all know this. But did you know that too MUCH water is actually worse for plants than too little? The tendency for homeowners is to water too much. If you water every night, then it won’t go dry! That may be true, but we’ll cover the danger behind that thinking in a bit. Or, the company that installed the system put together a schedule that doesn’t take into account the environment at your property; “factory settings”, if you will. Having an irrigation system can be a major convenience and a beneficial item in the quest for the best lawn on the block. However, they do require constant monitoring and maintenance to make sure they’re doing the job correctly.

Turf irrigation is a broad topic that could fill several hours and many pages of reading material. Turf professionals all across the world spend considerable time on the “simple” act of watering the turf. We’ll try to keep things relatively simple (after all, we’re not hosting Wimbledon or the Super Bowl on our lawns) and touch on the key points that will help you get a grasp of how to make your irrigation system work for you!

 

So, What is the Right Amount of Water?

In general terms, one inch of water per week is recommended for growing healthy turf. It’s a decent benchmark, but that number should change through the course of the season. When temperatures are cool, daylight hours are short, and if we go through a stretch of cloudy skies, your lawn will need very little water. At the peak of summer heat, one inch of water probably isn’t enough! The best way to determine how much water is enough is to examine the turf itself. Grass has an amazing way of telling us what it needs! This isn’t a difficult thing to do, taking a few minutes to walk across the lawn will give you an idea of what it needs for water.

 

What do I look for??

Luckily, turfgrass gives us ample warning when it starts to dry out. The first thing we look for is a change of color. The green color fades a bit and starts to take on a grayish cast. As it progresses, it starts to take on a purple cast as well. At this stage, the leaf of the plant breaks and bends easily. Walking on it will leave very noticeable footprints (as shown below). You may notice that the grass has stopped growing in those spots as well. This is the IDEAL time to water. A deep, thorough irrigation the night/morning after seeing turf at this stage will be extremely beneficial, and the best technique for the health of the turf.

 

If the turf doesn’t receive any water at the above time and goes a few more days without water, the purple cast becomes brown patches. If you pull at the turf in these spots, it will stay in place (meaning that it isn’t some sort of insect chewing at roots). The soil has very little moisture at this point, and a very deep irrigation is needed to bring things back. Watering a few nights per week may be necessary to give the turf enough water so green growth is again visible. Unfortunately, it may take a few weeks for everything to green up if the lawn is allowed to dry out to what is seen below. Once the leaf tissue is dried out, it takes time for the turf to regenerate enough new growth that the damaged turf is mowed off.

 

Anything past the conditions shown above means the lawn has likely gone into full dormancy. Dormancy means the plant has shut down and is waiting for conditions to be right again in order to revive regular growth. This could take several weeks or more.

 

Watering “Correctly”

Now that we’ve covered what to look for, we’ll discuss what it means to water properly (yes, there is a right and wrong way to water plants). The rule of thumb for turf is “deep and infrequent”. We want to water the lawn thoroughly, with the goal of putting about ½” water on the turf. When do we want to water? We talked about that earlier, we want to water the turf when it gets to the grey/purple stage we showed earlier. That is when the plant and the soil will be most receptive to moisture. 

When we talk about amounts of water, it can be confusing because irrigation controllers aren’t adjusted based on amounts, they’re adjusted based on time. How much water is a ten-minute cycle? Is thirty minutes enough? There’s an easy way to find out! You can place a few containers (empty soup cans, Tupperware containers, etc.) in the lawn a few feet apart. They have to be in a spot that is irrigated by one “zone” of irrigation heads, and they have to be the same container to give us consistent readings. A zone is a group of several heads that run at the same time, and water a specific area of the lawn. If you turn that particular zone on for 15 minutes, we can figure out how much water that area is getting in one hour by measuring the average amount of water in those containers and multiplying by 4. For example, if there is 0.2” of water in the container after 15 minutes, then you can expect 0.8” for an hour of operation. It’s expected to have some inconsistencies, but we’re hoping to get a ballpark figure to help guide our watering decisions. The more containers we can use, the better. In that case, running two zones at the same time might be necessary.

Depending on the weather conditions, we may be able to water once a week, or if things got away from us a bit, we might have to water two nights in a row. During a stretch where we’re getting ample rain, we could go several weeks without running an irrigation system. The key to all of this is being able to recognize when the plant needs water, and only watering when needed. 

 

So Why Should We Let It Get So Dry?

When plants are healthy, they grow. Not only are the leaves and “showy” parts thriving, but the roots are growing too. The thicker and deeper the roots, the more efficient the plant is at taking in water and nutrients. Drying the plant out actually encourages roots to grow deeper in search of more water.  We starve the plant of water until it shows signs of drought stress, then we give it a thorough drink to quench its thirst. In general, a ½” of water should moisten the soil approximately 6” deep. Maintaining this cycle of deep watering on dry turf will encourage a thicker root system to the point that irrigation becomes even less frequent.

If we water too frequently in small amounts, the roots never have a chance to go searching for water. Shallow root growth is going to lead to many issues and a plant that isn’t healthy. Over-watered turf will take on a bit of a yellow cast and will thin out over time. If the roots shrink, so will the plant. This watering patterns leads to excessive moisture in the thatch layer, which can lead to turf disease. In extreme cases of overwatering, the soil becomes soft and prone to mower damage. Weed infestation becomes possible due to the soil being wet and the plant thinning out. If we enter a period of very hot weather and the soil surface is wet, we run the danger of seeing scalded turf. The top layer of soil turns into an oven, and this deadly combination of heat and moisture literally cooks the roots. 

Water is a precious resource, and we don’t want to see any of it wasted. I’m sure we’ve all driven down the street in the rain and noticed irrigation running at a business or home. Those are situations we absolutely want to avoid. There certainly is a responsibility that comes with having an irrigation system. Being armed with the knowledge of proper watering techniques will help your lawn, the environment, and the level of enjoyment from having it. Irrigation doesn’t have to be irritation!

Identifying White Grubs in Your Iowa Lawn

white grubs iowa lawns

There are numerous insects and weeds that can affect a stand of turfgrass, whether it be a home lawn, a golf course, or an athletic field. They all are unique in their timing, damage, and what we can do to control them. Few things, however, can take out a vast area of turf like white grubs can. One infestation of white grubs is all that is needed to know that they are something worth treating for. If you haven’t had them in your lawn, the odds are that you know someone who has. We’ll look at how to identify them, the damage they cause, and what can be done to control and prevent them.

What Does White Grub Damage Look Like?

White grubs are the larvae of several types of beetles. These adults lay eggs in the summer, and these eggs hatch in the early fall. These larvae are really hungry and need to eat a lot in order to prepare for overwintering and metamorphosis (when they change into adults). They eat the roots of turfgrass right below the surface of the soil, causing the plants to dry out, wilt, and eventually die. Labor Day is usually when we start to see grub damage, and it can persist into October. If grubs are suspected, there’s a very easy way to find out. When the turf is grabbed and pulled, it peels back like carpet (as shown on the left). The picture on the right shows grub damage a few days after infestation.

This damage in and of itself is incredibly damaging. What can be absolutely devastating, however, is the damage caused by animals looking for these grubs. Skunks, raccoons, possums, and other four-legged friends will turn the grass over and dig to find these grubs. That damage is pictured above on the left and below. These animals are all nocturnal, so they’re doing their feeding at night. We can repair that damage by putting everything back down in its place, but if there are still grubs in the soil, the same areas will unfortunately be dug up again. Once the turf is put back, it will take fertilizer and a healthy amount of water to get things to root and fill in again. It is not an enjoyable process. In most cases, areas that have been damaged by grubs eventually need re-seeded or sodded.

White Grub Identification

White grubs are the larvae of several different beetles that are common in this area of the country. As the name suggests, they have a white, fleshy body and an orange/brown head. They have three pairs of very small legs near their head with an elongated body. They are usually found curled up in the shape of a “c”. There are nine different insects that give rise to white grubs. The most common in our area that lead to white grubs are the Northern Masked Chafer and Japanese Beetle. The bluegrass billbug is also a culprit, but their timing is different and that is discussed in another blog post. Here is a picture of the different beetle species, and a picture of the various grubs that hatch from these adults. They all have the same general appearance but are different in their size and the pattern of the hairs on their hind end.

Controlling White Grubs

Luckily, white grubs can be controlled with a single application in the summer. There are a few different insecticides that can be applied to turf that will make the roots toxic to these grubs. The product that we use at UltraLawn is applied in the summer when adults are in flight and laying their eggs. This will need watered in so the plant can fully absorb the active ingredient. Preventative measures are the best, most economical way to treat for grubs by a wide margin.

Curative measures are available if an infestation has occurred. The active ingredients to these products are different, and they are typically more expensive. In order for these products to work, they need to be thoroughly watered in immediately after application for the product to work its way through the turf down to the grubs. Even if the response is prompt and the product is properly applied and watered in, there is no guarantee that our animal friends will stay away. Depending on how hungry they are, they may still eat grubs that are dead.

Grubs are the most damaging pest to bluegrass, and in order to protect your lawn, they must be treated for accordingly. If you would like some assistance, please contact us here at UltraLawn. Our trained professionals will gladly help!

Our Evergreen Partnership with the Cedar Rapids Kernels

Being in business for 38 years has allowed UltraLawn to cultivate a bevy of incredibly rewarding relationships. People have trusted us with all sorts of projects of all sizes dealing with an array of problems requiring solutions. Whether it’s controlling weeds in a small front lawn or helping to rebuild lawns and landscapes devastated by a natural disaster, the satisfaction of a job done well never gets old!

One of the unique partnerships that’s been created is with the Cedar Rapids Kernels. In 1890, the Cedar Rapids Canaries took the field as part of the Illinois-Iowa league. Nearly 120 seasons later (there were a few breaks in the action), the Kernels are still playing ball! There is a deep connection between the city of Cedar Rapids and this baseball team, and that support and passion was recognized in 2021. Major League Baseball restructured its minor league system, which resulted in dozens of minor league teams being disbanded. The Kernels were elevated to “High A” status in the rebranded Midwest League, showing just how great a job Cedar Rapids has done hosting professional baseball! We couldn’t be more excited or proud to be a small part of the experience they offer fans and players!

In 2008, we entered an earnest partnership with the Kernels to assist in taking care of the playing surface. The field there, consistently ranked among the best in the Midwest League, is under the outstanding direction of Jesse Roeder. Jesse has been recognized by the Iowa Sports Turf Managers Association as its Manager of the Year, and the field he maintains has also been awarded as the best playing surface in the state, regardless of sport.

High level athletic fields are a unique, delicate environment to care for. The field at Veterans’ Stadium is a premium blend of Kentucky Bluegrass grown on a sand-based medium. The field is fully irrigated and is mowed between 1” and 1.5”. UltraLawn does NOT recommend trying to replicate those conditions at home! The bluegrass blend used there is comprised of specific varieties of bluegrass that can withstand low mowing heights, do a better job holding up to traffic, and are more resistant to diseases. The interior of the infield is mowed with a 21” walk-behind “reel-to-bedknife” mower, the rest is cut with a 3-reeled unit commonly called a “triplex”. These types of mowers are specially designed for precision cuts on the highest quality of turf, and also make it possible to accomplish the striping and designs that you see when you put a baseball game on TV. Roeder and his staff mow the field several times a week, which helps keep the playing surface thick, fast, and consistent. Since there are heavy rollers on their machines, mowing directions do need to be alternated to keep the grass growing as upright as possible.

Whenever turf is grown and maintained in such conditions, it is under increased amounts of stress. Even though the field at Veteran’s Stadium is lush, green and perfectly manicured, there are extra steps necessary to keep it that way beyond what a homeowner must do to keep their own lawn in good shape. Regular irrigation is necessary to keep the grass hydrated, but in the heat of summer, it can create an environment where the turf is under disease pressure. This is one aspect where we’ve assisted the Kernels, applying preventative fungicide treatments there for several years. Depending on weather conditions, we will alter the products used to treat the disease that is the biggest threat at the time. Our equipment allows us to achieve superior coverage, done in a manner that ensures no compaction to the field from heavy spray equipment.

In addition to a disease control program, we also assist Mr. Roeder with insect diagnosis and treatment, as well as helping with problematic grasses that infiltrate the playing surface. At the beginning of each growing season, we come up with a plan with Jesse to make sure the needs of his field are being addressed, we’re responding to issues that may have crept up the previous season, and doing whatever we can to let him and his crew show off their excellent work.

We are a small cog in a smooth rolling wheel, but it’s a great source of pride that we can assist in taking care of the baseball field that belongs to OUR city’s team!

Battling Wild Violets in Iowa Lawns

wild violets in iowa lawns

In an earlier blog post, we talked about creeping charlie as a problematic weed in lawns. Wild violets are another broadleaf weed that causes some frustration due to their persistence and difficulty to control. Wild violets thrive in and are first noticed in shady, moist conditions, but can withstand drought once they’re established.  A thin stand of turf will also be more susceptible to wild violets and other weeds. Wild violets and creeping charlie are frequently mentioned together, but the reasons behind their persistence are a bit different.  Let’s take a closer look!

Identification of Wild Violets in Your Lawn

Wild violets have a heart-shaped leaf that grows on a single stalk. At times throughout the growing season, they’ll sprout small flowers that are blue/violets that also grow on individual stalks. At times, those flowers can be white too. Violets don’t grow very tall, so they usually aren’t seen from a distance like grassy weeds that grow faster than turf.

As mentioned earlier, wild violets thrive in shady, moist conditions. These conditions aren’t favorable for turf growth, which then exacerbates the issue. Tree limbs can be raised or thinned out to create more sunlight. If that isn’t a desirable option, that area could be converted to a low-maintenance landscape bed with shade-loving plants like hosta, astilbe and coral bells. As much as we love turfgrass, we also acknowledge that some environments aren’t meant for grass and would be better served in a different capacity. Aesthetically, a landscape bed may be more pleasing to the eye than a struggling patch of turf.

So, why are wild violets so difficult to control? There are a few different characteristics that make them a worthy adversary:

  • The leaves of wild violets have a waxy coating that makes it difficult for herbicides to fully penetrate the leaf. We’ll touch on that when discussing controls for wild violets.
  • Wild violets are resistant to a variety of herbicides. Our program includes herbicides that are effective, used in a rotation.
  • Wild violets have a very thick root system and spread by thick underground roots called rhizomes. Repeat applications are necessary for the products to work their way into these roots.

Controlling Wild Violets on Your Property

There are two general methods to controlling weeds and pests; cultural and chemical. Cultural controls are non-chemical methods that are aimed at changing the environment or suppressing growth with practices designed to strengthen the turf. These include:

  • Mowing your lawn at the proper height, and at appropriate intervals. Lawns should be mowed at least 3” through the growing season, and raised to 3.5” in periods of extreme drought or heat. Lawns should be mowed frequently enough that we’re removing NO MORE than 1/3 of the plant. At times, that may mean mowing every 4-5 days. Proper mowing is the #1 practice that has the largest impact on turf quality.
  • Fertilizing at regular intervals and proper amounts to make the turf as thick as possible. Weeds are great at finding open spaces to grow, and a well-fertilized turf has a thick, full canopy that will prevent weed germination.
  • Proper irrigation will help keep our turfgrass healthy, while also preventing a habitat that encourages wild violets. Violets love moist soil, and watering frequently will not allow the soil to dry out properly. A good irrigation schedule waters the lawn when needed, and provides about ½” of water at a time.
  • Aerating at least once per year (spring or fall) is a necessary practice to help the soil and turf. Aeration relieves soil compaction, removes extra thatch, and improves air, water and nutrient movement within the soil. Regular aeration in conjunction with the above practices will yield a thick, healthy turf that will do a great job keep out any weed.

Chemical control, using herbicides, is usually necessary when dealing with wild violets. Because of its growth habit and characteristics, one treatment is not enough to eradicate wild violets. Repeat applications will be necessary, along with the proper lawn care practices outlined earlier. Certain products stay in the plant for longer periods of time and are metabolized by the plant more slowly than other herbicides.

Here at UltraLawn, we utilize these products whenever conditions are right for their use. Full program customers also receive free service calls; visits where we can come address issues and spot-treat problematic weeds between regular visits. UltraLawn is focused on proper weed control, and thorough coverage and treatment of weeds is part of the program. We utilize the best products available, and regularly change the tools in our arsenal to make sure we provide the best service possible. If you’re having problems with wild violets (or other problematic weeds), feel free to give UltraLawn a call for a free quote today!

Killing Crabgrass Weeds in Cedar Rapids & Iowa City Lawns

crabgrass weeds cedar rapids iowa city

Summers in Iowa can be hard on our lawns. The days are long, so sunlight is drying out our landscapes for over 12 hours a day. The weather is hot and humid, weakening the turf and making it susceptible to various insects and diseases. Summer also brings about annual grasses, and the one that gets the most attention in this part of the country is crabgrass. Crabgrass is considered a “warm-season grass”, meaning that it won’t germinate until late spring, and thrives in the hottest weather. Unfortunately, this time of year is hardest on the grasses we want to keep strong (these are considered “cool-season grasses”), so crabgrass is able to compete and take advantage of these conditions. We’ll take a look at how to identify crabgrass, and what can be done to control it.

Identifying Crabgrass in Your Yard

Crabgrass generally has a lighter green color, but it does tend to darken as it matures. Crabgrass has a broad leaf that has a soft texture, and it grows low to the ground. It starts as single leaf, then over time develops tillers, which are new stems that arise from the parent plant. As more tillers develop, the plant flattens out and gets a more rounded appearance. As it matures even more, above-ground stems called stolons are produced. These stolons grow along the soil surface and will take root, forming an entirely new plant. Below are some pictures showing a crabgrass plant as it matures.

Because of its growth habit, crabgrass can withstand regular mowing and grows outward more than upward. Crabgrass is unaffected by drought, and will thrive and spread while the lawns may be suffering. After reaching maturity, seedheads are produced and that seed is dropped onto the soil or spready via mowers, wind, birds, etc. If conditions are right, that seed will germinate the following spring/summer. With crabgrass being a “warm-season” grass, it doesn’t like any semblance of colder temperatures. The first frost of the year sends crabgrass into dormancy. It will turn purple, then brown, and eventually “melt” away. While it is great to see crabgrass die off, it’s an empty victory if it was able to produce seeds. With each plant producing hundreds, if not thousands, of seeds it’s easy to see how things can get out of control.

Fighting (and Killing) Your Lawn's Crabgrass

Whenever we encounter weeds, we have two treatment options: post-emergent and pre-emergent. Early-season lawn applications should ALWAYS include pre-emergent for crabgrass. The cost for fertilizer to include pre-emergent herbicide is minimal, and if it’s 90% effective, it’s money well spent. UltraLawn’s full program includes crabgrass pre-emergent on our first two visits of the season. In order to achieve season-long control, this method is recommended. Over the years, its been found that sequential applications are needed in order to get the product into the soil early enough to knock back our first “wave” of weeds, and again to make sure control extends late enough into the summer. When these pre-emergent herbicides are in the soil, it creates a toxic environment for weeds that are trying to germinate.

Crabgrass pre-emergent will be effective right away in its first season, but it usually takes a few years of a consistent program to reach a point where a Cedar Rapids or Iowa City homeowner can boast of a lawn that is 100% crabgrass free.

There can be breakthrough in certain spots even if pre-emergent has been used for years. When we see crabgrass, it is usually along the edges of sidewalks and curbs. Those areas get very hot due to the proximity to pavement, and are also exposed to sand and salt from winter snow removal. That heat makes the product break down a little bit faster and leads to a bit of breakthrough.

Post-emergent control of crabgrass can be achieved with several products. Our mid-summer application is a granular fertilizer with optional grub control, followed by a thorough walk through the lawn to spot-treat weeds, crabgrass included. On lawns that have received pre-emergent weed control, very little time is spent treating crabgrass. If a lawn has NOT received pre-emergent weed control, much more time and effort will be spent trying to catch up. In some cases, an infestation is so bad that spraying everything would leave much more bare ground than is tolerable. It may be better to let the crabgrass go dormant naturally in the fall, which will allow the turf to fill in where it can. It will be imperative then to make sure pre-emergent is applied the very next spring.

As always, maintaining a healthy stand of turf through proper fertilization and mowing will go a long ways in preventing crabgrass infestation. We often see weeds when a lawn is mowed too short. Low mowing heights put undue stress on the plant, causing it to thin out. This creates room for weeds to germinate. What also happens is that low mowing heights eliminate too much leaf tissue. That leaf tissue acts as an umbrella, preventing sunlight from hitting the soil. With that umbrella gone, weed seeds are more likely to germinate.

If you suspect that crabgrass is an issue or you have questions or concerns about your lawn, feel free to give the experts at UltraLawn a call!

2020 Derecho Effects on Cedar Rapids Lawns & Trees

uprooted tree grass from 2020 derecho in cedar rapids

There is no way to overstate the profound effect of the August 2020 derecho on the greater Cedar Rapids area. It will always be mentioned in the same breath as the 2008 flood in terms of the power displayed by Mother Nature, and the raw destruction of its force.

It’s been estimated that Cedar Rapids has lost more than 80% of its tree cover since August 10, 2020. That number continues to grow as trees that were damaged, but not destroyed, by the storm eventually succumb to irreversible harm. Great efforts have been made to replant lost trees, but it will take decades for the city to resemble what it once was. The environment around us has changed considerably, and we’ll talk about the different issues and opportunities that have arisen.

Effects of Sun & Shade on Lawn Grass

For decades, lawns and landscapes around Cedar Rapids sat under an umbrella of shade. This influenced so many decisions that homeowners encounter when planning their outdoor space. The types of landscape plants that do well in shady conditions are certainly not the same as those that do well in full sun. The same thought applies to turf grass! We can’t pick grass types based simply on what we want or what looks better. The selection must be made for the specific environment. Older, shaded lawns in our area will have a high percentage of “fine-leaf” fescues. Some very old seed blends that were marketed for shady growing sites also contained “rough bluegrass”. When we communicate with customers about that type of grass, we will refer to it as poa trivialis, its scientific name. All the mentioned grasses are tolerant to shade, have a very fine leaf texture, and are adapted to cooler temperatures. Even under the cover of shade, hot and humid weather in the middle of summer will cause poa trivialis and fine fescues to show signs of stress. Their leaves will become brown, vigor is lost, and the overall appearance is mistaken for disease. This stress is usually temporary, and by fall everything looks green and healthy again. With no shade cover, these grass types are now in a losing battle. Many homeowners in Cedar Rapids are seeing this, and the ultimate solution most of the time is to re-seed or sod the lawn with grasses that do well in full sun environments. Replacing the shade would be great, but it will take decades to accomplish that.

New Weeds Arriving Post-Derecho

In August, many plants have sprouted seed heads, including weeds. Seeds are designed to travel, and they are most often moved by the wind. A multiple-hour weather event with straight-line winds exceeding 70 MPH, traveling across hundreds of miles, is certain to move a lot of seeds! We saw the results of this migration in the spring of 2021. Our customers and technicians were shocked by the amount of weeds found in lawns, but we were all baffled by what we were seeing too. Field pennycress, marestail, prickly lettuce, garlic mustard….plants that were typically problematic in farm fields and forest floors, were now growing in our lawns. I’ve pictured them below:

            

prickly lettuce weed

Prickly Lettuce

 
garlic mustard weed

Garlic Mustard (In year 1)

 

field pennycress weed

Field Pennycress

 
marestail weed

Marestail

         

Garlic mustard is an invasive plant that has been taking over forest floors for several years. It doesn’t do well in full sun environments, so in that regard it has declined in the wooded areas of Cedar Rapids. Where it concerned us was that the sheer abundance of seeds was causing it to pop up in landscaping beds and in thin areas on shaded lawns.

As the season went on, we found that periodic applications of broadleaf weed control and regular mowing were effective in getting rid of these weeds. We did see them emerge again in 2022, and prickly lettuce, in particular, has become one of the weeds seen most often by our technicians. Again, we are encouraged by the control that has been achieved with our broadleaf weed control.

Planting New Grass & Trees

After losing so many trees, the natural reaction has been a city-wide effort to replace them! Thousands and thousands of new trees have been planted in the last 2 years, with many more to come. When planting a new tree, nurseries stress the importance of watering. Without a doubt, consistent watering is imperative. Fertilizing the root zone is extremely beneficial, and growth rates can be increased up to 20% by giving the plant supplemental nutrition. Iowa soil is known for being fertile and offering a great medium for plant growth. When trees are transplanted, it can take time for roots to transition to their new home and thrive. Deep root fertilization helps hasten that process. Root growth and top growth (leaves and branches) maintain a balance. When the root growth is boosted, the plant absorbs more nutrients and water which are turned into leaves and branches. The extra foliage produces more carbohydrates which are sent to the roots to enhance root growth. It creates an efficient, productive “machine” that builds on itself and the end result is a healthier plant that will reach maturity sooner.

Plant selection and placement is important when trying to replace trees that have been lost. There is usually a desire to put the same kind of tree in, but several factors should be considered before planting something new. Many of the older neighborhoods in Cedar Rapids were filled with large, stately oaks that were likely there before. Most of the oaks native to Iowa are in the white oak family, which are slow growers. If the goal is to re-establish some shade, a faster growing species should be considered.

Transitioning from Trees to Grass

When trees came down, they left behind stumps that required grinding out and cleaning up. It’s not recommended to plant new trees in the same spot as an older tree that was taken out, so the holes left behind needed to be converted to new grass cover. The first challenge was making sure the stump was thoroughly ground down and as much wood material removed as possible. While a stump is being ground out, it’s difficult to see exactly where the large surface roots of a tree are since they become covered in debris. Those surface roots, if not thoroughly removed, will continue to be a nuisance until they are completely removed. With the tree (its anchor) now gone, they are more likely to come up out of the soil during our usual freeze/thaw cycles in the spring. Those exposed roots are not only an annoying eyesore, but they can be a tripping hazard and potentially damage mower blades.

With a large hole left behind, the steps to establishing turf seemed very straightforward! Add some soil, level and grade, then seed or sod the area. However, it was more of a challenge than we anticipated. One factor was the difficulty in clearing all wood material from the old stumps. It seemed that no matter how many wood chips and shavings were removed, more always seemed to bubble up to the surface. Grass can’t sustain growth in a soil that has a large percentage of wood material. Those wood chips have not broken down into organic matter yet that can sustain plant growth, and as they decay, air pockets are created. Those air pockets lead to instability of the soil, and until that soil has fully settled, roots cannot thrive in that environment.

Another reason it has been so difficult to establish turf where large trees once stood, is methane. When large amounts of organic matter decompose, methane gas is released. An overabundance of that gas is toxic to young roots that haven’t fully established. Therefore, we still see areas that are struggling to grow grass more than two years later. Unfortunately, this wasn’t learned about or realized until the spring and summer of 2021, when it was clear that something wasn’t working. Over time, we can expect things to keep decaying and turning into nutrient-rich organic matter. The amounts of gas given off should subside, and the growing medium will support turf growth. How long that will take is anyone’s best guess.

When is the Best Time to Aerate Your Lawn?

If you aren’t familiar with what aeration is or why it is helpful for your lawn, you are not alone. It’s something that can easily go unattended because it happens under the the surface. In fact, only 25% of homeowners in the United States aerate their lawn.

What is Aeration and Why is it Important?

Aeration is a process by which air is allowed to circulate through a substance. You can aerate a wide variety of things, such as milk, blood and also soil. It allows air to circulate through the lawn, but also provides a pathway for water and nutrients to reach the roots in a more direct manner. Aeration is usually accomplished by poking holes in the soil or by taking plugs of soil out of the ground. Core aeration requires heavy machinery that has been designed specifically for this purpose. The use of aerators creates exposed roots and surfaces of the plant are cut open, this can result in the plant dying out a bit before it heals. This process can take up to a couple weeks. 

There are natural soil aerators, like bugs and other soil-loving creatures that dig in the dirt – but they are not as effective or as capable as humans are, especially professional lawn care technicians. Following the service, you will notice a stronger turf beneath your feet after a few weeks.

When is the Best Season to Aerate in Cedar Rapids & Iowa City?

Before you go and buy yourself a lawn aerator or hire someone to come out, you should know that there are better times to aerate your lawn than others. While the long-term effects of aeration are beneficial for your lawn, it is also stressful to the plants if not done a the right time. We want to target the times of the year when the lawn is healthy and growing. In Iowa (specifically Cedar Rapids & Iowa City), we have cool season grasses. So spring and fall are the best times to both aerate and seed your lawn.

Now that its narrowed down to the season, the other huge factor is the weather. We know how unpredictable Iowa weather can be and it has an impact on when your lawn entering its “growing” stage. Because we tailor our lawn care program to take advantage of the weather conditions, we have found that these ideal times present themselves in the spring and late summer/fall for Cedar Rapids & Iowa City.

Ideal Weather Conditions for Aeration

In the spring, it’s best to wait until the grass is starting to or is consistently growing. For this to happen, the soil needs to be approaching 50+ degrees. There are a couple indicators we can use tell when a lawn is fit for aeration:

  • Green Grass – Every fall/winter, the plant goes dormant. As a result, it tends to turn a yellowish/brown color. In the spring, the new growth pushes out the dormant material, which is eventually mowed off and decomposes. When a lawn has consistently green grass, we know it has grown out of dormancy and it healthy enough for aeration.
  • Mowing frequency –  Mowing should be done often enough that you remove no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade. When the lawn needs mowed more than once a week, it is a strong indicator it would recover quickly from aeration. Mowing frequently is also a great way to break up the cores that have been pulled during aeration, allowing the soil to fall back into the holes and decompose naturally. 

In the early fall (August through October), growth of the plant isn’t as rapid as it was in the spring. However, this is when the root growth is accelerated as the plant is recovering from the heat of the summer months. There is always a chance your lawn goes dormant in the summer months, so you may need to wait until the grass greens again before aerating. Also if there was a summer drought, the soil may be too hard to even penetrate well. So waiting for cooler temperatures, shorter daylight hours, and increased rainfall make the fall a perfect time of year for the lawn. 

Don’t have time to aerate your lawn?

Your time is valuable. We know you have family, hobbies and work so give us a call and we would be happy to provide you with a no obligation quote.

Brown & Yellow Streaks in Your Lawn May be Ascochyta Leaf Blight

Ascochyta leaf blight on iowa lawns

Do you see bleached tracks on your lawn that typically follow the path of your mower? It could be Ascochyta Leaf Blight, which is a grass fungus that is found primarily on Kentucky Bluegrass, the most common grass in Iowa. This disease causes irregular patches of straw-brown color and will make your grass appear dead. This can pop up overnight, having a great looking lawn one day and a streaky yellow lawn the next. Weather can have a factor in it as well, as it is typically preceded by wet weather that turns hot and dry. You will start seeing these damaged lawns near the beginning of June, but they can also occur anytime throughout the summer.

This is a foliar disease that kills the leaf tissue, not the root system. This also means that the disease is transferred by infectious spores that sit on the surface of the grass. The “dead” patches are commonly seen where your mower tires track because your tires will easily spread the spores as you mow your lawn. Given that the outbreaks are so random, you typically won’t notice your lawn is affected until after the patches are already there. Once they appear, there is little you can do to make them go away. The good news is that recovery should only take 3-4 weeks, depending on how the growing conditions are over that time. There also are some practices you can perform regularly to relieve stress on your lawn and lessen your chances of a yellow, patchy lawn appearing overnight.

The four main cultural practices you can do properly for a stress-free lawn are: fertilizing, mowing, watering, and core-aerating. If you haven’t already, please consider our Weed and Feed fertilizing program. We apply the best products available in the correct amount at the right time. Mowing frequency, height of cutting, and blade sharpness are very important. Please be sure 2.5” – 3” of height remains after you’ve cut the lawn. Anything shorter than this causes stress on the lawn and allows weed infiltration. Never cut more than one third of the grass blade when mowing. And avoid mowing in the heat of the day, especially if the lawn appears to be wilting or starting to dry out. 

A healthy lawn needs 1” – 1.5” of moisture a week. It is best to water over night. Keep in mind, recovery will be slow and over-watering will not speed it up and may cause more problems. Keep up with fertility to promote re-growth. Core-aeration should be an annual practice especially for lawns that frequently have disease issues. Aeration reduces thatch levels and increases air movement, which allows the grass plants to dry more efficiently.

With this particular disease, curative fungicide treatments are not recommended. There are preventative fungicides available, but they must be applied before the problem appears. If we find a recurring problem, we may suggest preventative treatment(s) or over-seeding problem areas with varieties of grass resistant to the disease. We offer fertilization programs, aeration, and mowing services. Please contact our office if we can be of further assistance.