Hire a Pro or Go DIY? The Economics of Lawn Care

Thinking about tackling your lawn care on your own? While DIY might seem like a money-saver, it often comes with hidden costs, time commitments, and underwhelming results. This article explores the pros and cons of DIY lawn care versus hiring a professional, so you can decide what’s best for your lawn, your budget, and your peace of mind.

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Identifying & Treating Thistles in Iowa Lawns


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Thistles are one of the more problematic weeds we encounter at UltraLawn. While most broadleaf weeds can’t survive regular mowing, thistles are ones that can withstand the blades and will keep coming back! This resilience not only makes them difficult to control but also presents hazards, especially to customers with pets or children. Thistles don’t need much of an introduction, but we’ll cover the two most common types: Canada thistle and Bull thistle. If you’re reading this blog, chances are you’re familiar with thistles in your lawn. The pictures below may, unfortunately, be familiar to you.

Identifying Canada Thistle

Canada thistle is a perennial plant, returning year after year with leaves covered in spines that produce recognizable pink/purple flowers when allowed to grow tall. Mature leaves’ waxy coating complicates herbicide application. This weed spreads vigorously through seeds and an extensive network of underground roots, each plant capable of producing over 50,000 tiny seeds. Removing the flower prevents seed production, but managing its deep-reaching roots proves far more challenging.

The roots of Canada thistle run deep, rendering attempts to remove them often futile. These underground root systems feature growth points called “nodes,” from which new growth can emerge when disturbed. This characteristic, beneficial for lawn aeration’s ability to thicken turf by encouraging new plants, also complicates weed control. Pulling weeds like thistles, quackgrass, or yellow nutsedge can stimulate further growth from these nodes, exacerbating the issue. It’s crucial to consider the origin of these weeds; thistles from neighboring properties or landscaping beds will persist until addressed at the source.

Given these challenges, effective control of Canada thistles typically requires chemical intervention. Later, we’ll discuss strategies for chemical control, including approaches for managing other problematic thistles.

Identifying Bull Thistle

Bull thistle shares the “typical” traits of all thistles; leaves that are very spiny along the edges and a rosette appearance. However, it differs from Canada thistle in several key aspects: the upper leaf surfaces are hairy rather than smooth, the color is darker, and the plant itself is larger in size. Bull thistle follows a biennial life cycle, completing its growth over two years unlike Canada thistle’s perennial nature. In its first year, it forms a low-growing rosette, while in the second year, vertical stems develop for flower and seed production. This species is commonly found in pastures, forage grounds, or undeveloped natural areas, often emerging in newly developed lands where thistle seeds may lay dormant in the soil.

Unlike Canada thistle, Bull thistle does not spread via underground roots, relying solely on seed reproduction. Preventing bull thistle from seeding can lead to the eventual demise of individual plants without producing offspring. This characteristic contrasts with the challenge posed by Canada thistle’s prolific seed production and deep-rooted nature. Mechanical removal, such as digging up the plant, is an effective control method for bull thistle, provided it is caught early before it becomes established.

Myth Busting: Thistle Seeds in Bird Seed

Thistles, like dandelions, are prolific seed producers equipped with feathery appendages that aid in long-distance travel. We feel that it is important to dispel a certain myth, however. Contrary to popular belief, bird seed does not contain actual thistle seeds. The seed labeled as such is from a plant called nyjer, and it is treated with heat to make it non-viable. Several species of thistle are considered noxious weeds, and manufacturing their seed as a food product would likely violate regulations.

Chemical Control of Thistles

Now that we have a better understanding of the specific thistles we’re dealing with, let’s focus on the core topic—controlling them. Bull thistles, with their larger size, darker color, and hairy leaves, can be dug out as they do not spread. In contrast, Canada thistles are smaller, lighter in color, and tend to proliferate quickly once established. Our broadleaf weed control methods effectively suppress and stunt thistles, although complete eradication can be challenging.

For our full program customers, we offer complimentary service calls, crucial for tackling stubborn weeds. During these visits, our team uses specialized products tailored to specific weed issues, including stronger, longer-lasting treatments for Canada thistles that target their extensive underground root systems. Multiple applications are often necessary for effective control.

Thistles present a formidable challenge but are not unbeatable. In addition to thistles, other common weeds to combat include creeping charlie, crabgrass, and quackgrass. Each of these weeds requires specific control strategies to keep your lawn healthy and weed-free. At UltraLawn, our professionals are equipped to help you combat thistle problems and ensure your lawn is safer and more enjoyable. Contact us today if you’re facing thistle issues, and let us assist you in achieving a healthier lawn.

How to Keep Your Lawn & Landscape Healthy in a Drought


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Over the last few years, we’ve learned just how challenging it can be to maintain a green and lush lawn & landscape during a drought. Scorching temperatures and dry soil can take a toll on your plants and grass. But don’t despair, there are some tips and tricks you can use to keep your Cedar Rapids & Iowa City properties looking great even in the driest conditions. Here are some of them:

Proper Lawn Mowing Routines

We always recommend raising your mowing height in the summer months. As we found out in the spring of 2023, it may be necessary to do this as a response to turf conditions. Mowing & edging your lawn too short or waiting too long between mowing can have several detrimental effects. Every time the plant is mowed, moisture is removed. Not only is the plant itself mostly made of water, but the open wounds from mowing will result in a loss of moisture. Furthermore, moisture is required to help “build” the leaf tissue that is grown to replace what has been lost. Mowing too short, removing more than 1/3 of the plant, will thin out the canopy of grass leaves and allow more sunlight to filter through to the soil. That will dry the soil faster and open up avenues for weeds to come in. The single thing that a homeowner can do that is hardest on the lawn is to mow too short. Doing this in the midst of a drought can set a lawn back months. Aim for a height of 3 to 4 inches, and in the heat of summer/in drought conditions, set your mower on the highest setting possible. It’s also very important to make sure your mower’s blades are sharp. A sharp blade will cut through grass cleanly, leaving a wound that will heal quickly. A dull mower blade tears and shreds the plant, creating a large wound that will take longer to heal. Also, the increased surface area of the cuts (as shown on the left), will result in more moisture leaving the plant.

Don’t Skip Your Lawn Care Treatments!

There is a widespread notion that applying fertilizer when it’s hot will “burn up” the plant. That is simply not true. A regular application on the hottest summer day, even on dormant turf, will not have any negative affect on your lawn. Fertilizer only is a negative if it’s misapplied; a spill that doesn’t get cleaned up or sufficiently diluted, or a liquid fertilizer that is allowed to get too hot and it turns into acid. Simply put, something has to go very wrong for fertilizer to burn the turf, and in those instances, no weather conditions would save the plant.

Lawn fertilizer does more than help grass grow. Essential nutrients are supplied that help maintain as healthy a plant as possible. Elements like potassium, phosphorus, calcium and sulfur are vital to the plant’s ability to withstand stress, fight off disease, grow strong roots, or make sure the most necessary functions at the cellular level are operating as efficiently as possible. Plants use water, sunlight and nutrients at all times, except for during deep winter dormancy. Having a reserve of essential nutrients in the soil is necessary for plants to function when conditions are great for growing. Drought dormancy is very hard on plants, and the things that are needed for plants to grow in good conditions are needed even more to help plants recover should they slip into dormancy. Having a reserve of nutrients for turf roots to feed on is absolutely necessary for your lawn to fully recover from drought. It’s never a good idea to starve your plants!

Rainfall or irrigation is necessary to “activate” nutrients in the soil. A common request we’ll receive is to wait for rain to complete the next application. It is much better to complete the application when it’s dry and wait for rainfall, than to wait and complete it after it rains. We are never certain when the next rain event will happen, and fertilizer doesn’t disappear if it isn’t watered in. The products we use are coated for a controlled release, ensuring that the product will stay in place and release slowly over time. This gives the plant a slow feeding that lasts for several weeks and helps to maintain a rich, green color.

Water Your Lawn Wisely

When you water your lawn and landscape, make sure you do it efficiently and effectively. The best time to water is early in the morning or late in the evening, when the sun is not too strong, and evaporation is minimal. Water deeply and infrequently, rather than shallowly and often, to encourage deep root growth and drought tolerance. If you’re watering landscape plants, set up a drip irrigation system or use a hose on a soaker setting to deliver water directly to the roots, rather than a sprinkler that wastes water on the leaves and pavement. Watering the foliage of landscaping plants or trees in the hot/humid stretches of summer can encourage disease development.

Mulch or Rock Your Landscape Beds

Mulching is a great way to conserve moisture, prevent weeds, and protect the roots of your plants from extreme temperatures. It’s best to use organic materials such as wood chips, straw, leaves, or grass clippings. Synthetic mulches made out of plastic or rubber are also available and can provide many of the same benefits, but they are costly, don’t break down to become organic matter, and can’t be tilled into the soil. Rock is frequently used in landscaping beds and does a good job suppressing weeds as long as a quality barrier is in place under the rock. Like mulch, a rock layer can also prevent moisture loss from the soil. However, rock can become very hot and can damage plants that are more sensitive to heat. Rock will reflect heat that can cause wilting to foliage and heat stress that wouldn’t occur with a wood mulch. A sound strategy that combines the look of rock with the benefits of mulch is to have a ring of mulch around the base of the plant, while the rest of the bed is covered in rock. When mulching, apply a layer of 2 to 4 inches of mulch around your plants, leaving some space around the stems to avoid rotting.

Consider Tall Fescue Grass for Your Lawn

Tall fescue is something that we’ve spent a lot of time talking about, and for good reason. It’s known for its deep root system, which allows it to withstand drought conditions better than many other grass types. By considering tall fescue for your lawn, you can take a proactive step towards drought management. Its resilience and ability to maintain green color even in dry spells make it a valuable addition to any lawn.

Drought management is expected to be a necessary skill moving forward! By incorporating tall fescue and implementing these tips, you can keep your lawn and landscape healthy and vibrant even in the face of drought challenges.

What Did We See in 2023?


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As 2022 was coming to a close, we did a quick synopsis of what we had encountered that growing season. The general feeling was that it was a very unique year and we were hopeful that some of the problems we found wouldn’t become new traditions. The good news is that insect issues were not nearly as bad in 2023, and that was a major concern of ours heading into this season! The bad news is that the periodic stretches of dry weather from 2022 turned into a near season-long drought in 2023.

Drought Stress Continues...

A relatively mild, dry winter started our year off with a moisture deficit. That deficit never went away, as every month of the growing season failed to provide the amount of moisture we needed to return our lawns and landscapes to a state of proper hydration. Without additional irrigation, plants lacked color and vigor. Flowers were sparse and small, and scenic landscapes lacked their usual “wow!” factor. Depending on species, some mature shade trees showed various signs of drought stress all season.

On lawns, the prolonged drought showed itself in a number of ways. The vibrant green color of spring was faded and lawns came out of winter more slowly. It is usually a battle to keep the lawn mowed in the months of May and June, because the grass is growing very fast. We did not have that problem this year, and the lack of growth meant thin or bare areas never fully healed. Lawns were battling dormancy all summer, resulting in a thinning of the turf and increased susceptibility to compaction, traffic, and insect damage. A reduced turf canopy opened the soil to warmth and sunlight, which gave weeds an avenue to break through. Luckily, some timely rains in the later part of fall helped hydrate the soil and give our plant life much needed water to help restore some of its lost luster. The late rains also gave us a clear picture on areas that may require seeding in the spring.

The Unexpected Culripts

Another issue that was frustrating to us and our customers involved the increased amount of raccoon damage that was seen for a few weeks in October. Whenever we see animals digging through turf, our immediate reaction is to assume that there is a problem with insects. Even after using a product that kills grubs and other surface insects, the raccoons were still digging! Why? Well, we learned a few things! First, raccoon populations have exploded across the state of Iowa over the last 15 years. The price for fur has gone down considerably, and fewer people are trapping them as a source of income. Due to several dry years in a row, it is becoming more difficult for them to find food in their natural habitat. As a result, they are searching around homes and in urban areas for something to eat. Second, they don’t care if their food is alive or dead. We found a few grubs on properties that were dealing with raccoons, but they were not white or lively. Those grubs weren’t damaging the turf, but a hungry raccoon doesn’t care. Third, raccoons are great at finding anything to eat. It turns out their presence doesn’t indicate an insect issue at all. The problem was the raccoons themselves. There are simply too many of them and the only solution that was found that had a positive impact was to trap or eliminate them. The state of Iowa has changed its laws around dealing with raccoons, and our hope is that their populations come under control and they stop being such a nuisance for our customers.