Identifying & Treating Thistles in Iowa Lawns

Thistles are one of the more problematic weeds we encounter at UltraLawn. While most broadleaf weeds can’t survive regular mowing, thistles are ones that can withstand the blades and will keep coming back! This resilience not only makes them difficult to control but also presents hazards, especially to customers with pets or children. Thistles don’t need much of an introduction, but we’ll cover the two most common types: Canada thistle and Bull thistle. If you’re reading this blog, chances are you’re familiar with thistles in your lawn. The pictures below may, unfortunately, be familiar to you.

Identifying Canada Thistle

Canada thistle is a perennial plant, returning year after year with leaves covered in spines that produce recognizable pink/purple flowers when allowed to grow tall. Mature leaves’ waxy coating complicates herbicide application. This weed spreads vigorously through seeds and an extensive network of underground roots, each plant capable of producing over 50,000 tiny seeds. Removing the flower prevents seed production, but managing its deep-reaching roots proves far more challenging.

The roots of Canada thistle run deep, rendering attempts to remove them often futile. These underground root systems feature growth points called “nodes,” from which new growth can emerge when disturbed. This characteristic, beneficial for lawn aeration’s ability to thicken turf by encouraging new plants, also complicates weed control. Pulling weeds like thistles, quackgrass, or yellow nutsedge can stimulate further growth from these nodes, exacerbating the issue. It’s crucial to consider the origin of these weeds; thistles from neighboring properties or landscaping beds will persist until addressed at the source.

Given these challenges, effective control of Canada thistles typically requires chemical intervention. Later, we’ll discuss strategies for chemical control, including approaches for managing other problematic thistles.

Identifying Bull Thistle

Bull thistle shares the “typical” traits of all thistles; leaves that are very spiny along the edges and a rosette appearance. However, it differs from Canada thistle in several key aspects: the upper leaf surfaces are hairy rather than smooth, the color is darker, and the plant itself is larger in size. Bull thistle follows a biennial life cycle, completing its growth over two years unlike Canada thistle’s perennial nature. In its first year, it forms a low-growing rosette, while in the second year, vertical stems develop for flower and seed production. This species is commonly found in pastures, forage grounds, or undeveloped natural areas, often emerging in newly developed lands where thistle seeds may lay dormant in the soil.

Unlike Canada thistle, Bull thistle does not spread via underground roots, relying solely on seed reproduction. Preventing bull thistle from seeding can lead to the eventual demise of individual plants without producing offspring. This characteristic contrasts with the challenge posed by Canada thistle’s prolific seed production and deep-rooted nature. Mechanical removal, such as digging up the plant, is an effective control method for bull thistle, provided it is caught early before it becomes established.

Myth Busting: Thistle Seeds in Bird Seed

Thistles, like dandelions, are prolific seed producers equipped with feathery appendages that aid in long-distance travel. We feel that it is important to dispel a certain myth, however. Contrary to popular belief, bird seed does not contain actual thistle seeds. The seed labeled as such is from a plant called nyjer, and it is treated with heat to make it non-viable. Several species of thistle are considered noxious weeds, and manufacturing their seed as a food product would likely violate regulations.

Chemical Control of Thistles

Now that we have a better understanding of the specific thistles we’re dealing with, let’s focus on the core topic—controlling them. Bull thistles, with their larger size, darker color, and hairy leaves, can be dug out as they do not spread. In contrast, Canada thistles are smaller, lighter in color, and tend to proliferate quickly once established. Our broadleaf weed control methods effectively suppress and stunt thistles, although complete eradication can be challenging.

For our full program customers, we offer complimentary service calls, crucial for tackling stubborn weeds. During these visits, our team uses specialized products tailored to specific weed issues, including stronger, longer-lasting treatments for Canada thistles that target their extensive underground root systems. Multiple applications are often necessary for effective control.

Thistles present a formidable challenge but are not unbeatable. In addition to thistles, other common weeds to combat include creeping charlie, crabgrass, and quackgrass. Each of these weeds requires specific control strategies to keep your lawn healthy and weed-free. At UltraLawn, our professionals are equipped to help you combat thistle problems and ensure your lawn is safer and more enjoyable. Contact us today if you’re facing thistle issues, and let us assist you in achieving a healthier lawn.

Choosing the Right Lawn Care Company: Why UltraLawn Stands Out

Local, Iowa Lawn Expertise & Tailored Programs

If you’ve taken some time to look through our website, or are an existing customer, you’ve noticed the pride that we take in providing the best service possible! From using the most effective products available to thorough communication with customers (both existing and potential), we take every step possible to make sure we’re doing things the right way. ULTRALawn has served eastern Iowa homeowners since the 1970s, making us one of the longest standing lawn care companies in the area.

Our staff consists of educated and experienced individuals, most of which are native to Iowa. Having decades of local knowledge has been critical in helping us craft lawn care programs that utilize the correct products at the right times. We respond quickly to issues that are affecting our local environment, and we understand that our unique micro-climate requires the kind of care that may not fit into a “textbook” program.

Conventional wisdom has long recommended an application of pre-emergent crabgrass control in the early spring. Over the years, we’ve added pre-emergent herbicide to our second treatment in the spring. The window for crabgrass germination outlasts a single application in the spring, so we’ve modified our program to include a second dose of herbicide, ensuring that your lawn stays free of crabgrass and foxtail. While it is just one example, there is a constant evaluation of product usage and timing to better fit our unique climate.

Value Over Price

Cost is one of the most important factors a customer weighs when deciding between companies and products. UltraLawn will never sell itself as the cheapest lawn care provider, but we instead stress value. Our lawn program isn’t just like everyone else’s. What makes us different is what makes us better. It’s very important that we are proficient in communicating what sets us apart from our competitors. Here are some important points to convey if someone is trying to cancel, or wondering why they should consider us:

  • We are a LOCAL If they call, they are talking to someone in Hiawatha who personally knows the technicians that work on our customers’ lawns. TruGreen, Weed Man and Naturescape are national chains, and even though they may have a local number, there’s no guarantee that the person they talk to is actually in the area.
  • Grub Control is part of the 6-application program. Most importantly, anyone who receives the grub preventer is eligible for ONE FREE INSECTICIDE APPLICATION if there is an insect breakthrough. The product we use has a manufacturer’s guarantee and we honor that.
  • Nutsedge treatments are not an additional service. We do this when we spot-treat weeds as part of our mid-summer application. If necessary, we give our technicians the necessary product to spot treat for this when we complete our early Fall application as well. I have seen our competitors charge extra for nutsedge treatment.
  • Our fertilizer has a higher percentage of organic matter and biosolids than our competitors. This means that we are giving the plant the nutrients it needs AND building the topsoil with a superior product. Synthetic fertilizers are made with fillers that have no benefit to the lawn. We use products that are designed to release slowly, giving turf a steady diet of what it needs. Color and growth are more consistent using these products, and we avoid peaks and valleys in the appearance of a lawn.
  • We offer FREE service calls to any customer that receives 4 consecutive applications or more. These help us maintain our guarantee of satisfaction and are often necessary when dealing with especially persistent weeds.

At some point, a customer may show you an estimate or mailer advertising prices that we can’t compete with. More than likely, those are introductory prices meant to generate new sales. What will the prices be after the first season with that company? Our pricing is based strictly on the size of the lawn, making us consistent and fair.

UltraLawn isn’t just selling a quality lawn and healthy turf; we’re promising our customers a team of people that is approachable, friendly, cooperative, honest, and wants to work with the homeowner to give them the outdoor space they hoped for. Our technicians are the most important piece of that puzzle, and are the face that our customers most frequently see and recognize. When our customers feel like they have a relationship with their lawn technician, they are more likely to keep us as their lawn care provider.

Transparent & Consistent Lawn Care Pricing

There are many companies offering lawn care services in our area. In fact, you probably have received a call or mailer from at least a few of them! Larger, nation-wide companies (Tru-Green, NatureScape, WeedMan, Spring Green) can aggressively advertise and have marketing teams dedicated to soliciting new business. One marketing ploy we frequently see from our competitors is offering low introductory pricing. These discounts are great if the main goal is to save money, but those prices will inevitably rise, and the end result is a disappointed customer. We believe in consistency and honesty, and there will never be games with our pricing at UltraLawn. We promise results, knowing that the best value is achieved by doing our job better than everyone else.

Personalized Customer Service

We all have probably encountered a situation where we had to call customer service for an issue that seemed like a relatively quick fix. However, after being led through a maze of menu options, you’re left waiting on hold for several minutes. When someone finally does pick up on the other end, you’re forced to repeat all of your information again, the individual is in a call center far away from home, or you get transferred to another person who may or may not be able to actually help. It’s disheartening to know that if an issue comes up with your lawn, your call could be going to a main office in Chicago, Memphis, or Ontario!

When you call UltraLawn, you can be assured that your call will be answered by someone in our lone office in Hiawatha. If you need to leave a message for someone, your call will be returned by a trusted expert who has been to your property and has the knowledge to answer your questions. It can be very reassuring to know that, when dealing with a locally owned business, you’re more than “just a number”.

Choosing the right lawn care provider is about more than just prices. It’s about finding a company that values local expertise, offers exceptional value, transparent pricing, superior products, and personalized customer service. At UltraLawn, we stand out in all these aspects, and we’re committed to delivering the highest standard of lawn care to our customers. Contact us today to experience the UltraLawn difference!

What Did We See in 2023?

As 2022 was coming to a close, we did a quick synopsis of what we had encountered that growing season. The general feeling was that it was a very unique year and we were hopeful that some of the problems we found wouldn’t become new traditions. The good news is that insect issues were not nearly as bad in 2023, and that was a major concern of ours heading into this season! The bad news is that the periodic stretches of dry weather from 2022 turned into a near season-long drought in 2023.

Drought Stress Continues...

A relatively mild, dry winter started our year off with a moisture deficit. That deficit never went away, as every month of the growing season failed to provide the amount of moisture we needed to return our lawns and landscapes to a state of proper hydration. Without additional irrigation, plants lacked color and vigor. Flowers were sparse and small, and scenic landscapes lacked their usual “wow!” factor. Depending on species, some mature shade trees showed various signs of drought stress all season.

On lawns, the prolonged drought showed itself in a number of ways. The vibrant green color of spring was faded and lawns came out of winter more slowly. It is usually a battle to keep the lawn mowed in the months of May and June, because the grass is growing very fast. We did not have that problem this year, and the lack of growth meant thin or bare areas never fully healed. Lawns were battling dormancy all summer, resulting in a thinning of the turf and increased susceptibility to compaction, traffic, and insect damage. A reduced turf canopy opened the soil to warmth and sunlight, which gave weeds an avenue to break through. Luckily, some timely rains in the later part of fall helped hydrate the soil and give our plant life much needed water to help restore some of its lost luster. The late rains also gave us a clear picture on areas that may require seeding in the spring.

The Unexpected Culripts

Another issue that was frustrating to us and our customers involved the increased amount of raccoon damage that was seen for a few weeks in October. Whenever we see animals digging through turf, our immediate reaction is to assume that there is a problem with insects. Even after using a product that kills grubs and other surface insects, the raccoons were still digging! Why? Well, we learned a few things! First, raccoon populations have exploded across the state of Iowa over the last 15 years. The price for fur has gone down considerably, and fewer people are trapping them as a source of income. Due to several dry years in a row, it is becoming more difficult for them to find food in their natural habitat. As a result, they are searching around homes and in urban areas for something to eat. Second, they don’t care if their food is alive or dead. We found a few grubs on properties that were dealing with raccoons, but they were not white or lively. Those grubs weren’t damaging the turf, but a hungry raccoon doesn’t care. Third, raccoons are great at finding anything to eat. It turns out their presence doesn’t indicate an insect issue at all. The problem was the raccoons themselves. There are simply too many of them and the only solution that was found that had a positive impact was to trap or eliminate them. The state of Iowa has changed its laws around dealing with raccoons, and our hope is that their populations come under control and they stop being such a nuisance for our customers.

I Have My Own Irrigation System! Am I Doing This Right?

iowa lawn irrigation

Congratulations! You’ve just bought the house of your dreams in Iowa City or Cedar Rapids, IA! It’s a great feeling – this is the kind of home you’ve worked for and you just know that you’re going to be happy there. You’re a bit of a lawn nut too, and you’ve stumbled into a property that has an in-ground irrigation system. No more brown or yellow lawn in July and August when things get too dry. You can have a nice, lush, green lawn the whole season, and the title of “Turf King” is in your sights.

Oh, if only it was that easy! Water is essential for all plant growth, we all know this. But did you know that too MUCH water is actually worse for plants than too little? The tendency for homeowners is to water too much. If you water every night, then it won’t go dry! That may be true, but we’ll cover the danger behind that thinking in a bit. Or, the company that installed the system put together a schedule that doesn’t take into account the environment at your property; “factory settings”, if you will. Having an irrigation system can be a major convenience and a beneficial item in the quest for the best lawn on the block. However, they do require constant monitoring and maintenance to make sure they’re doing the job correctly.

Turf irrigation is a broad topic that could fill several hours and many pages of reading material. Turf professionals all across the world spend considerable time on the “simple” act of watering the turf. We’ll try to keep things relatively simple (after all, we’re not hosting Wimbledon or the Super Bowl on our lawns) and touch on the key points that will help you get a grasp of how to make your irrigation system work for you!

 

So, What is the Right Amount of Water?

In general terms, one inch of water per week is recommended for growing healthy turf. It’s a decent benchmark, but that number should change through the course of the season. When temperatures are cool, daylight hours are short, and if we go through a stretch of cloudy skies, your lawn will need very little water. At the peak of summer heat, one inch of water probably isn’t enough! The best way to determine how much water is enough is to examine the turf itself. Grass has an amazing way of telling us what it needs! This isn’t a difficult thing to do, taking a few minutes to walk across the lawn will give you an idea of what it needs for water.

 

What do I look for??

Luckily, turfgrass gives us ample warning when it starts to dry out. The first thing we look for is a change of color. The green color fades a bit and starts to take on a grayish cast. As it progresses, it starts to take on a purple cast as well. At this stage, the leaf of the plant breaks and bends easily. Walking on it will leave very noticeable footprints (as shown below). You may notice that the grass has stopped growing in those spots as well. This is the IDEAL time to water. A deep, thorough irrigation the night/morning after seeing turf at this stage will be extremely beneficial, and the best technique for the health of the turf.

 

If the turf doesn’t receive any water at the above time and goes a few more days without water, the purple cast becomes brown patches. If you pull at the turf in these spots, it will stay in place (meaning that it isn’t some sort of insect chewing at roots). The soil has very little moisture at this point, and a very deep irrigation is needed to bring things back. Watering a few nights per week may be necessary to give the turf enough water so green growth is again visible. Unfortunately, it may take a few weeks for everything to green up if the lawn is allowed to dry out to what is seen below. Once the leaf tissue is dried out, it takes time for the turf to regenerate enough new growth that the damaged turf is mowed off.

 

Anything past the conditions shown above means the lawn has likely gone into full dormancy. Dormancy means the plant has shut down and is waiting for conditions to be right again in order to revive regular growth. This could take several weeks or more.

 

Watering “Correctly”

Now that we’ve covered what to look for, we’ll discuss what it means to water properly (yes, there is a right and wrong way to water plants). The rule of thumb for turf is “deep and infrequent”. We want to water the lawn thoroughly, with the goal of putting about ½” water on the turf. When do we want to water? We talked about that earlier, we want to water the turf when it gets to the grey/purple stage we showed earlier. That is when the plant and the soil will be most receptive to moisture. 

When we talk about amounts of water, it can be confusing because irrigation controllers aren’t adjusted based on amounts, they’re adjusted based on time. How much water is a ten-minute cycle? Is thirty minutes enough? There’s an easy way to find out! You can place a few containers (empty soup cans, Tupperware containers, etc.) in the lawn a few feet apart. They have to be in a spot that is irrigated by one “zone” of irrigation heads, and they have to be the same container to give us consistent readings. A zone is a group of several heads that run at the same time, and water a specific area of the lawn. If you turn that particular zone on for 15 minutes, we can figure out how much water that area is getting in one hour by measuring the average amount of water in those containers and multiplying by 4. For example, if there is 0.2” of water in the container after 15 minutes, then you can expect 0.8” for an hour of operation. It’s expected to have some inconsistencies, but we’re hoping to get a ballpark figure to help guide our watering decisions. The more containers we can use, the better. In that case, running two zones at the same time might be necessary.

Depending on the weather conditions, we may be able to water once a week, or if things got away from us a bit, we might have to water two nights in a row. During a stretch where we’re getting ample rain, we could go several weeks without running an irrigation system. The key to all of this is being able to recognize when the plant needs water, and only watering when needed. 

 

So Why Should We Let It Get So Dry?

When plants are healthy, they grow. Not only are the leaves and “showy” parts thriving, but the roots are growing too. The thicker and deeper the roots, the more efficient the plant is at taking in water and nutrients. Drying the plant out actually encourages roots to grow deeper in search of more water.  We starve the plant of water until it shows signs of drought stress, then we give it a thorough drink to quench its thirst. In general, a ½” of water should moisten the soil approximately 6” deep. Maintaining this cycle of deep watering on dry turf will encourage a thicker root system to the point that irrigation becomes even less frequent.

If we water too frequently in small amounts, the roots never have a chance to go searching for water. Shallow root growth is going to lead to many issues and a plant that isn’t healthy. Over-watered turf will take on a bit of a yellow cast and will thin out over time. If the roots shrink, so will the plant. This watering patterns leads to excessive moisture in the thatch layer, which can lead to turf disease. In extreme cases of overwatering, the soil becomes soft and prone to mower damage. Weed infestation becomes possible due to the soil being wet and the plant thinning out. If we enter a period of very hot weather and the soil surface is wet, we run the danger of seeing scalded turf. The top layer of soil turns into an oven, and this deadly combination of heat and moisture literally cooks the roots. 

Water is a precious resource, and we don’t want to see any of it wasted. I’m sure we’ve all driven down the street in the rain and noticed irrigation running at a business or home. Those are situations we absolutely want to avoid. There certainly is a responsibility that comes with having an irrigation system. Being armed with the knowledge of proper watering techniques will help your lawn, the environment, and the level of enjoyment from having it. Irrigation doesn’t have to be irritation!

Battling Wild Violets in Iowa Lawns

wild violets in iowa lawns

In an earlier blog post, we talked about creeping charlie as a problematic weed in lawns. Wild violets are another broadleaf weed that causes some frustration due to their persistence and difficulty to control. Wild violets thrive in and are first noticed in shady, moist conditions, but can withstand drought once they’re established.  A thin stand of turf will also be more susceptible to wild violets and other weeds. Wild violets and creeping charlie are frequently mentioned together, but the reasons behind their persistence are a bit different.  Let’s take a closer look!

Identification of Wild Violets in Your Lawn

Wild violets have a heart-shaped leaf that grows on a single stalk. At times throughout the growing season, they’ll sprout small flowers that are blue/violets that also grow on individual stalks. At times, those flowers can be white too. Violets don’t grow very tall, so they usually aren’t seen from a distance like grassy weeds that grow faster than turf.

As mentioned earlier, wild violets thrive in shady, moist conditions. These conditions aren’t favorable for turf growth, which then exacerbates the issue. Tree limbs can be raised or thinned out to create more sunlight. If that isn’t a desirable option, that area could be converted to a low-maintenance landscape bed with shade-loving plants like hosta, astilbe and coral bells. As much as we love turfgrass, we also acknowledge that some environments aren’t meant for grass and would be better served in a different capacity. Aesthetically, a landscape bed may be more pleasing to the eye than a struggling patch of turf.

So, why are wild violets so difficult to control? There are a few different characteristics that make them a worthy adversary:

  • The leaves of wild violets have a waxy coating that makes it difficult for herbicides to fully penetrate the leaf. We’ll touch on that when discussing controls for wild violets.
  • Wild violets are resistant to a variety of herbicides. Our program includes herbicides that are effective, used in a rotation.
  • Wild violets have a very thick root system and spread by thick underground roots called rhizomes. Repeat applications are necessary for the products to work their way into these roots.

Controlling Wild Violets on Your Property

There are two general methods to controlling weeds and pests; cultural and chemical. Cultural controls are non-chemical methods that are aimed at changing the environment or suppressing growth with practices designed to strengthen the turf. These include:

  • Mowing your lawn at the proper height, and at appropriate intervals. Lawns should be mowed at least 3” through the growing season, and raised to 3.5” in periods of extreme drought or heat. Lawns should be mowed frequently enough that we’re removing NO MORE than 1/3 of the plant. At times, that may mean mowing every 4-5 days. Proper mowing is the #1 practice that has the largest impact on turf quality.
  • Fertilizing at regular intervals and proper amounts to make the turf as thick as possible. Weeds are great at finding open spaces to grow, and a well-fertilized turf has a thick, full canopy that will prevent weed germination.
  • Proper irrigation will help keep our turfgrass healthy, while also preventing a habitat that encourages wild violets. Violets love moist soil, and watering frequently will not allow the soil to dry out properly. A good irrigation schedule waters the lawn when needed, and provides about ½” of water at a time.
  • Aerating at least once per year (spring or fall) is a necessary practice to help the soil and turf. Aeration relieves soil compaction, removes extra thatch, and improves air, water and nutrient movement within the soil. Regular aeration in conjunction with the above practices will yield a thick, healthy turf that will do a great job keep out any weed.

Chemical control, using herbicides, is usually necessary when dealing with wild violets. Because of its growth habit and characteristics, one treatment is not enough to eradicate wild violets. Repeat applications will be necessary, along with the proper lawn care practices outlined earlier. Certain products stay in the plant for longer periods of time and are metabolized by the plant more slowly than other herbicides.

Here at UltraLawn, we utilize these products whenever conditions are right for their use. Full program customers also receive free service calls; visits where we can come address issues and spot-treat problematic weeds between regular visits. UltraLawn is focused on proper weed control, and thorough coverage and treatment of weeds is part of the program. We utilize the best products available, and regularly change the tools in our arsenal to make sure we provide the best service possible. If you’re having problems with wild violets (or other problematic weeds), feel free to give UltraLawn a call for a free quote today!

Killing Crabgrass Weeds in Cedar Rapids & Iowa City Lawns

crabgrass weeds cedar rapids iowa city

Summers in Iowa can be hard on our lawns. The days are long, so sunlight is drying out our landscapes for over 12 hours a day. The weather is hot and humid, weakening the turf and making it susceptible to various insects and diseases. Summer also brings about annual grasses, and the one that gets the most attention in this part of the country is crabgrass. Crabgrass is considered a “warm-season grass”, meaning that it won’t germinate until late spring, and thrives in the hottest weather. Unfortunately, this time of year is hardest on the grasses we want to keep strong (these are considered “cool-season grasses”), so crabgrass is able to compete and take advantage of these conditions. We’ll take a look at how to identify crabgrass, and what can be done to control it.

Identifying Crabgrass in Your Yard

Crabgrass generally has a lighter green color, but it does tend to darken as it matures. Crabgrass has a broad leaf that has a soft texture, and it grows low to the ground. It starts as single leaf, then over time develops tillers, which are new stems that arise from the parent plant. As more tillers develop, the plant flattens out and gets a more rounded appearance. As it matures even more, above-ground stems called stolons are produced. These stolons grow along the soil surface and will take root, forming an entirely new plant. Below are some pictures showing a crabgrass plant as it matures.

Because of its growth habit, crabgrass can withstand regular mowing and grows outward more than upward. Crabgrass is unaffected by drought, and will thrive and spread while the lawns may be suffering. After reaching maturity, seedheads are produced and that seed is dropped onto the soil or spready via mowers, wind, birds, etc. If conditions are right, that seed will germinate the following spring/summer. With crabgrass being a “warm-season” grass, it doesn’t like any semblance of colder temperatures. The first frost of the year sends crabgrass into dormancy. It will turn purple, then brown, and eventually “melt” away. While it is great to see crabgrass die off, it’s an empty victory if it was able to produce seeds. With each plant producing hundreds, if not thousands, of seeds it’s easy to see how things can get out of control.

Fighting (and Killing) Your Lawn's Crabgrass

Whenever we encounter weeds, we have two treatment options: post-emergent and pre-emergent. Early-season lawn applications should ALWAYS include pre-emergent for crabgrass. The cost for fertilizer to include pre-emergent herbicide is minimal, and if it’s 90% effective, it’s money well spent. UltraLawn’s full program includes crabgrass pre-emergent on our first two visits of the season. In order to achieve season-long control, this method is recommended. Over the years, its been found that sequential applications are needed in order to get the product into the soil early enough to knock back our first “wave” of weeds, and again to make sure control extends late enough into the summer. When these pre-emergent herbicides are in the soil, it creates a toxic environment for weeds that are trying to germinate.

Crabgrass pre-emergent will be effective right away in its first season, but it usually takes a few years of a consistent program to reach a point where a Cedar Rapids or Iowa City homeowner can boast of a lawn that is 100% crabgrass free.

There can be breakthrough in certain spots even if pre-emergent has been used for years. When we see crabgrass, it is usually along the edges of sidewalks and curbs. Those areas get very hot due to the proximity to pavement, and are also exposed to sand and salt from winter snow removal. That heat makes the product break down a little bit faster and leads to a bit of breakthrough.

Post-emergent control of crabgrass can be achieved with several products. Our mid-summer application is a granular fertilizer with optional grub control, followed by a thorough walk through the lawn to spot-treat weeds, crabgrass included. On lawns that have received pre-emergent weed control, very little time is spent treating crabgrass. If a lawn has NOT received pre-emergent weed control, much more time and effort will be spent trying to catch up. In some cases, an infestation is so bad that spraying everything would leave much more bare ground than is tolerable. It may be better to let the crabgrass go dormant naturally in the fall, which will allow the turf to fill in where it can. It will be imperative then to make sure pre-emergent is applied the very next spring.

As always, maintaining a healthy stand of turf through proper fertilization and mowing will go a long ways in preventing crabgrass infestation. We often see weeds when a lawn is mowed too short. Low mowing heights put undue stress on the plant, causing it to thin out. This creates room for weeds to germinate. What also happens is that low mowing heights eliminate too much leaf tissue. That leaf tissue acts as an umbrella, preventing sunlight from hitting the soil. With that umbrella gone, weed seeds are more likely to germinate.

If you suspect that crabgrass is an issue or you have questions or concerns about your lawn, feel free to give the experts at UltraLawn a call!

When is the Best Time to Aerate Your Lawn?

If you aren’t familiar with what aeration is or why it is helpful for your lawn, you are not alone. It’s something that can easily go unattended because it happens under the the surface. In fact, only 25% of homeowners in the United States aerate their lawn.

What is Aeration and Why is it Important?

Aeration is a process by which air is allowed to circulate through a substance. You can aerate a wide variety of things, such as milk, blood and also soil. It allows air to circulate through the lawn, but also provides a pathway for water and nutrients to reach the roots in a more direct manner. Aeration is usually accomplished by poking holes in the soil or by taking plugs of soil out of the ground. Core aeration requires heavy machinery that has been designed specifically for this purpose. The use of aerators creates exposed roots and surfaces of the plant are cut open, this can result in the plant dying out a bit before it heals. This process can take up to a couple weeks. 

There are natural soil aerators, like bugs and other soil-loving creatures that dig in the dirt – but they are not as effective or as capable as humans are, especially professional lawn care technicians. Following the service, you will notice a stronger turf beneath your feet after a few weeks.

When is the Best Season to Aerate in Cedar Rapids & Iowa City?

Before you go and buy yourself a lawn aerator or hire someone to come out, you should know that there are better times to aerate your lawn than others. While the long-term effects of aeration are beneficial for your lawn, it is also stressful to the plants if not done a the right time. We want to target the times of the year when the lawn is healthy and growing. In Iowa (specifically Cedar Rapids & Iowa City), we have cool season grasses. So spring and fall are the best times to both aerate and seed your lawn.

Now that its narrowed down to the season, the other huge factor is the weather. We know how unpredictable Iowa weather can be and it has an impact on when your lawn entering its “growing” stage. Because we tailor our lawn care program to take advantage of the weather conditions, we have found that these ideal times present themselves in the spring and late summer/fall for Cedar Rapids & Iowa City.

Ideal Weather Conditions for Aeration

In the spring, it’s best to wait until the grass is starting to or is consistently growing. For this to happen, the soil needs to be approaching 50+ degrees. There are a couple indicators we can use tell when a lawn is fit for aeration:

  • Green Grass – Every fall/winter, the plant goes dormant. As a result, it tends to turn a yellowish/brown color. In the spring, the new growth pushes out the dormant material, which is eventually mowed off and decomposes. When a lawn has consistently green grass, we know it has grown out of dormancy and it healthy enough for aeration.
  • Mowing frequency –  Mowing should be done often enough that you remove no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade. When the lawn needs mowed more than once a week, it is a strong indicator it would recover quickly from aeration. Mowing frequently is also a great way to break up the cores that have been pulled during aeration, allowing the soil to fall back into the holes and decompose naturally. 

In the early fall (August through October), growth of the plant isn’t as rapid as it was in the spring. However, this is when the root growth is accelerated as the plant is recovering from the heat of the summer months. There is always a chance your lawn goes dormant in the summer months, so you may need to wait until the grass greens again before aerating. Also if there was a summer drought, the soil may be too hard to even penetrate well. So waiting for cooler temperatures, shorter daylight hours, and increased rainfall make the fall a perfect time of year for the lawn. 

Don’t have time to aerate your lawn?

Your time is valuable. We know you have family, hobbies and work so give us a call and we would be happy to provide you with a no obligation quote.

Brown & Yellow Streaks in Your Lawn May be Ascochyta Leaf Blight

Ascochyta leaf blight on iowa lawns

Do you see bleached tracks on your lawn that typically follow the path of your mower? It could be Ascochyta Leaf Blight, which is a grass fungus that is found primarily on Kentucky Bluegrass, the most common grass in Iowa. This disease causes irregular patches of straw-brown color and will make your grass appear dead. This can pop up overnight, having a great looking lawn one day and a streaky yellow lawn the next. Weather can have a factor in it as well, as it is typically preceded by wet weather that turns hot and dry. You will start seeing these damaged lawns near the beginning of June, but they can also occur anytime throughout the summer.

This is a foliar disease that kills the leaf tissue, not the root system. This also means that the disease is transferred by infectious spores that sit on the surface of the grass. The “dead” patches are commonly seen where your mower tires track because your tires will easily spread the spores as you mow your lawn. Given that the outbreaks are so random, you typically won’t notice your lawn is affected until after the patches are already there. Once they appear, there is little you can do to make them go away. The good news is that recovery should only take 3-4 weeks, depending on how the growing conditions are over that time. There also are some practices you can perform regularly to relieve stress on your lawn and lessen your chances of a yellow, patchy lawn appearing overnight.

The four main cultural practices you can do properly for a stress-free lawn are: fertilizing, mowing, watering, and core-aerating. If you haven’t already, please consider our Weed and Feed fertilizing program. We apply the best products available in the correct amount at the right time. Mowing frequency, height of cutting, and blade sharpness are very important. Please be sure 2.5” – 3” of height remains after you’ve cut the lawn. Anything shorter than this causes stress on the lawn and allows weed infiltration. Never cut more than one third of the grass blade when mowing. And avoid mowing in the heat of the day, especially if the lawn appears to be wilting or starting to dry out. 

A healthy lawn needs 1” – 1.5” of moisture a week. It is best to water over night. Keep in mind, recovery will be slow and over-watering will not speed it up and may cause more problems. Keep up with fertility to promote re-growth. Core-aeration should be an annual practice especially for lawns that frequently have disease issues. Aeration reduces thatch levels and increases air movement, which allows the grass plants to dry more efficiently.

With this particular disease, curative fungicide treatments are not recommended. There are preventative fungicides available, but they must be applied before the problem appears. If we find a recurring problem, we may suggest preventative treatment(s) or over-seeding problem areas with varieties of grass resistant to the disease. We offer fertilization programs, aeration, and mowing services. Please contact our office if we can be of further assistance.

Tips for Seeding Lawns in Eastern Iowa

Seeding grass growing with UltraLawn

If you’ve been waiting to seed those thin or bare patches in your lawn, we suggest timing it between August and September to get optimal results for homeowners in Cedar Rapids and Iowa City. Once the seed is down, it’s important to begin daily watering immediately. At least twice per day is a must in order to keep the surface soil moist. Depending on the heat, additional shots of water may be needed. If the seed has been properly irrigated, you should see germination (sprouting) within a couple weeks. Once the germination process has completed (around four weeks) you can begin to reduce your watering routine to two to three times per week – an application of 1.5” of water at a time is typically sufficient. Seeded areas will need to be watered and fertilized throughout the growing season to allow it to thicken. These first year seedlings will not take drought well and will require your attention to survive the remaining hot summer months.

Once seedlings reach around 3.5” tall, you can include those areas as you mow the lawn. Make sure to leave 2.5” to 3” of the blade remaining – mowing too short will stress this new grass which can allow weed infiltration. Remember, these areas of your lawn can’t receive weed control treatments at this time and you should expect some weeds to show up as the new grass matures.

Avoid heavy foot traffic on these new patches until they’ve been mowed four to fives times. It may take up to a couple full years until these seeded areas reach the full thickness and health of your existing lawn. The speed of recovery ultimately comes down to water access so keep this rhyme in mind – keep it wet to avoid regret!

Remember that Ultralawn is here to help. If you’d like us to assist you in seeding your lawn, give us a call or contact us online for a quote. Every invoice comes with tips and comments related to our visit. See why homeowners in Cedar Rapids and Iowa City know that the grass is always greener (and fuller) on the UltraLawn side of the fence!